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How Custom Made Jewelry is Made Using the Lost Wax Casting Method

Jewelers who specialize in custom designing often use the lost wax casting method to create one-of-a-kind rings, charms, pendants, or other specialized items out of precious metals.

First the jeweler may sketch an idea on paper, especially if he or she is working with a client.  When the diagrammed sketch is approved, the jeweler then fashions an exact replica of the finished item in a soft, pliable wax.  The wax pattern, or maquette, is fitted with a stem called a sprue, which will create an exit for the wax when it is burned out.

This wax form is weighed to determine the amount of metal that will be needed.  It is then attached to a base and fitted with a tumbler that holds the mold material, which is plaster mixed with water to a cake batter consistency, called investment.  It must be free of bubbles before pouring into the tumbler, so it is placed in a vacuum to remove all the air.  The investment is poured into the tumbler and then taken to a kiln to have the wax burned out.

A jeweler’s centrifuge machine is the tool that injects the liquid metal into the mold.  The mold is taken from the kiln and placed in a holder that has a hollow arm attached to a cup that lines up with the hole in the mold. The pre-measured metal is placed in this small crucible, and then heated with a torch until it is liquid. 

The pin is then released on the centrifuge, and it spins rapidly around while the liquid metal is forced into the tumbler and mold. Once the spinning stops, the tumbler is removed from the centrifuge with tongs (it is extremely hot), dipped into cold water, and the plaster cracks and falls off of the metal inside.

At this point, the beautifully designed object created on paper does not even slightly resemble the blob of metal in the jeweler’s tongs.  This is because the base (or button) and the sprue are now metal like the rest of the design, and must be sawed and ground off with a jewelers’ Dremel tool, which is an instrument much like a dentist’s drill.

Much fine sanding and shaping is done with the Dremel and its attachments, and gradually the original design emerges.  Jewelers’ rouge puts a nice patina on the finish, and after much polishing, the piece is now ready for use.

Having a custom-made, jeweler-designed ring, pendant, charm, or other special item is something to be proud of, since it can define who you are, what your interests are, or what is important your life.

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